Geoheritage of the Beartooth Mountains, Montana-Wyoming: Traversing 4.0 Billion Years of Earth History

David Mogk, Professor Emeritus, Dept. Earth Sciences, Montana State University

Charles Kuralt, itinerant reporter for the CBS television show On the Road, branded the Beartooth Highway as "The most beautiful drive in America." Beyond the awe-inspiring landscapes, the Beartooth Mountains have preserved 4 billion years of Earth history. Rocks preserved in the Beartooth Mountains reveal the evolution of Earth's history through geologic time as recorded by ancient to present geologic events, processes and changing environments. Many of the great debates of geologic thought and advances in geologic understanding of how the Earth works have been developed, debated and refined based on evidence found in the rock record of the Beartooth Mountains. There is something of interest and importance for learners of all ages and abilities to be found in Beartooth Country! This is an invitation and encouragement for you to get out and explore these most amazing Beartooth Mountains!

Overview

This Field Guide is for everyone who simply wants to get out of town and explore Beartooth Country. You may simply want to experience the aesthetic beauty of the Beartooth Mountains, explore back roads that lead to special destinations, learn a little more natural history to enrich your hiking, fishing, or camping activities, or put boots on the ground for day hikes or more extensive backpack trips. This Field Guide identifies many of the most interesting geologic sites along the main trip route around the Beartooth Mountains (via US and State Highways) and side trips to sites of interest on many connecting USFS roads and designated trails. This is a compilation of the "greatest hits" of Beartooth geology we'd like to share with you based on 45 years of field research and leading academic field trips in Beartooth Country in collaboration with Drs. Paul Mueller, University of Florida, Darrell Henry, Louisiana State University, and Joseph Wooden, USGS (ret).

This field guide is designed to help you discover the natural wonders that are preserved in and around the Beartooth Mountains. In the sections below you will find:

  • Travel Logistics: Includes information on highway conditions, weather, maps and trail guides, links to other field guides and advice on how to safely and responsibly explore Beartooth Country to help plan your trip. Be prepared and know before you go!
    Jump down to: Travel Logistics
  • Beartooth Country Field Guides--Where to go, What to See and Do: This section provides information on the route that circumnavigates the Beartooth Mountains, with suggestions of stops to make to see extraordinary landscapes from highways, or side trips you might want to take to more deeply explore this country on Forest Service Roads or Trails. These road logs are for anyone who wants to simply get out for a day or more to enjoy the aesthetics and sublime qualities of this amazing country!
  • Geologic History of the Beartooth Mountains:  This companion webpage provides a detailed overview of 4 billion years of Earth history revealed in the Beartooth Mountains. Field sites recommended in the road log are keyed to these explanations of geologic features, history, and processes. Descriptions are provided about "what" the key features are, and also "when" and "how" they formed. Additional sections on "How do we know...." provide explanations on the scientific methods and type of evidence that is used to interpret Earth history and processes and how to think as a geologist. We think that you will have a richer experience traveling through Beartooth Country if you have a basic understanding of the natural history of this area.  
  • Bibliography of Scholarly Articles on the Beartooth Mountains:  For those who want to really take a deep dive into research that has been done in the Beartooth Mountains over the past century, a comprehensive bibliography is provided (with many articles uploaded or with links to their source). References cited throughout the Field Guides can be found in this bibliography. This compilation of references should provide a solid foundation for anyone interested in doing future research in this area--graduate students, academic faculty, professional geologists, and citizen-scientists. 
"Here is your country. Cherish these natural wonders, cherish the natural resources, cherish the history and romance as a sacred heritage, for your children and your children's children. Do not let selfish men or greedy interests skin your country of its beauty, its riches or its romance" -- Theodore Roosevelt 

A Note on Geoheritage

There is a growing international imperative to identify and preserve iconic geological sites for exploration, education and enjoyment for future generations. Geoheritage encompasses related initiatives that promote geoconservation, geodiversity, geoeducation, and geotourism. Geoheritage sites are recognized by their great scientific value in contributing to the understanding of Earth history, processes and environments. Geoheritage sites are also recognized by the important role they play in their relationship to humanity--where and how we live personally and in communities, relations between Earth and humanity that recognizes our collective reliance on natural resources and impacts of natural hazards. Geoheritage sites also embody our collective "sense of place" including cultural, aesthetic and spiritual values.


Two sites in the Beartooth Mountains have been recognized by the International Union of Geological Sciences in their "First 100 Geosites" compilation. "An IUGS Geological Heritage Site is a key place with geological elements and/or processes of international scientific relevance, used as a reference, and/or with a substantial contribution to the development of geological sciences through history." We are honored that these two sites are internationally recognized as among the most important sites globally that have contributed to the advancement of geologic research and thought:" The Archean Rocks of the Eastern Beartooth Mountains (#45) and the Stillwater Complex (#46) (Download the PDF of The First 100 IUGS Geosites)

Honoring the People Who Lived in Beartooth Country Before Us

Geoheritage inextricably links landscapes with the people who live there. Beartooth-Yellowstone Country has traditionally been at the crossroads of many indigenous people including the Crow (Apsáalooke), Sheepeaters (Tukudika), Blackfeet, Flathead, Salish-Kootenai, Assiniboine Nakota, Gros Ventre, Kiowa, Lakota Sioux, Cayuse, Shoshone-Bannock, Eastern Shoshone, Coeur d'Alene, and Nez Perce Nations who inhabited this area dating back to the of the last Ice Age ~12,000 years ago. This country was traditional hunting grounds for these tribes, and Obsidian Cliff in what is now Yellowstone National Park provided an important mineral resource for making arrowheads and spear points and were traded among indigenous people as far east as the Ohio River valley. The first exploration of this country by American explorers was the Lewis and Clark expedition as William Clark skirted the northern margin of the Beartooth Mountains on his return trip on the Yellowstone River in 1806. With growing pressure of westward development, the U.S. government ratified the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851which recognized the territorial land of the Crow, Cheyenne, Sioux, Arapaho, Mandan, Assiniboine, Hidatsa and Arikara Nations, but allowed for safe passage of American settlers along routes such as the Oregon Trail and allowed roads and forts to be built on these lands. The Crow Nation occupied much of Beartooth-Yellowstone country, and the Laramie Treaty of 1851 had dedicated lands to the Crow Nation from what is now the center of Yellowstone National Park to the east to the Powder River (~250 miles east-west). Establishment of YNP in 1872 by President U.S. Grant initiated the end of indigenous lands within the Park boundaries. The resident Sheepeaters (Tukudika) Tribe was forced to leave the park within 7 years, and park administrators from the US Army circulated false rumors that the Native People were afraid of the thermal areas to promote a growing tourism industry. In 1877, Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce Tribe, during his famous march while being pursued by the US Army, passed through Yellowstone National Park, through the Absaroka Range and exiting through the Clark Fork of the Yellowstone River, and then headed north through the area near Red lodge MT towards the Bear's Paw Mountains in north Central Montana. By 1882, with increased pressure of white settlers engaged with mining (discovery of gold) and homesteading, the Crow Nation lands around Cooke City had been ceded to the U.S. government, and by 1891 was further reduced to an area limited between the west boundary south of Billings, Montana and the 107th meridian (~75 miles east-west).  The original Crow reservation in 1851 was over 30 million acres, but was reduced to eight million acres in the subsequent Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868. In the 1950s, the U.S. government forced the tribe to sell their right to the Bighorn Canyon to make room for the Yellowtail Dam, and today the Crow Reservation is reduced to 2.2 million acres.

Allons! Whoever you are come travel with me!
Traveling with me you find what never tires.

The earth never tires,
The earth is rude, silent, incomprehensible at first, Nature is rude  and incomprehensible at first,
Be not discouraged, keep on, there are divine things well envelop'd,
I swear to you there are divine things more beautiful than words can tell!

-- Walt Whitman, Song of the Open Road

Travel Logistics...Plan Ahead, Know Before You Go!

Download this section on Travel Logistics or print a copy so you will have access to this important information while you travel through Beartooth Country (you will commonly be out of cell coverage and with no wi-fi access).  Download the PDF of Travel Logistics (Acrobat (PDF) 4.6MB Dec31 24).

Background Information on the Beartooth Mountains and Highway

For more background information on the Beartooth Mountains, check out resources at the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Foundation that "supports stewardship of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness and fosters appreciation of all wildlands." You might want to acquire a volume of Voices of Yellowstone's Capstone, A Narrative Atlas of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, by T.N. Parrie, and J.A. Logan, 2019--provides a great overview of the natural and cultural landscape of the Beartooth Mountains.

The USFS describes the Beartooth Scenic Byway-All American Road and the US Department of Transportation Federal Highway Administration provides this review of the many challenges in the history of construction and maintenance of this highway: An Orphaned Highway

For a great overview of the general geology of Montana, refer to Roadside Geology of Montana, 2nd edition, by D.W. Hyndman and R.C. Thomas.

Refer to the official Montana Tourism Visit Montana Website for general travel information.

Field Guide Route

Weather and Road Conditions

Safety, Safety, Safety

Outdoor Ethics

In the spirit of Geoheritage values, the preservation of geological outcrops, samples, landforms and landscapes is of the highest priority to ensure access and enjoyment of these irreplaceable features for future generations.

Geoethics and Sampling

Campsites and Trail Maps

The Custer-Gallatin National Forest has made available a very useful compilation of campgrounds, picnic areas, scenic vistas, and hiking trails along the Highway 212 Beartooth Corridor. The Gardiner Ranger District (MT) also has a list of available campgrounds and policies for dispersed camping. Be aware that some of these campgrounds are fist-come, first-served, but for others it's a good idea to secure a campsite reservation due to high tourist pressure.  And, some campsites are limited to hard-side campers for bear safety.

USGS and MBMG Geologic Maps That Cover Beartooth Country

USGS and MBMG Reports on the Geology of Beartooth Country

Geologic Field Guides and Road Logs Covering Beartooth Country

Geologic Field Guides and Road Logs Prepared by Numerous Professional Societies

A little planning before you take this field excursion will help ensure that you have a safe, comfortable and enriching excursion through Beartooth Country!