Geoheritage of the Beartooth Mountains, Montana-Wyoming: Traversing 4.0 Billion Years of Earth History
- First Publication: January 13, 2025
- Revision: February 7, 2025 -- Added section on indigenous people in Beartooth-Yellowstone country.
- Revision: February 7, 2025 -- Added section on indigenous people in Beartooth-Yellowstone country.
David Mogk, Professor Emeritus, Dept. Earth Sciences, Montana State University
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Charles Kuralt, itinerant reporter for the CBS television show On the Road, branded the Beartooth Highway as "The most beautiful drive in America." Beyond the awe-inspiring landscapes, the Beartooth Mountains have preserved 4 billion years of Earth history. Rocks preserved in the Beartooth Mountains reveal the evolution of Earth's history through geologic time as recorded by ancient to present geologic events, processes and changing environments. Many of the great debates of geologic thought and advances in geologic understanding of how the Earth works have been developed, debated and refined based on evidence found in the rock record of the Beartooth Mountains. There is something of interest and importance for learners of all ages and abilities to be found in Beartooth Country! This is an invitation and encouragement for you to get out and explore these most amazing Beartooth Mountains!
Overview
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Hellroaring Plateau to Mt. Rearguard
Provenance: Dave Mogk, Montana State University-Bozeman
Reuse: This item is offered under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/ You may reuse this item for non-commercial purposes as long as you provide attribution and offer any derivative works under a similar license.
This Field Guide is for everyone who simply wants to get out of town and explore Beartooth Country. You may simply want to experience the aesthetic beauty of the Beartooth Mountains, explore back roads that lead to special destinations, learn a little more natural history to enrich your hiking, fishing, or camping activities, or put boots on the ground for day hikes or more extensive backpack trips. This Field Guide identifies many of the most interesting geologic sites along the main trip route around the Beartooth Mountains (via US and State Highways) and side trips to sites of interest on many connecting USFS roads and designated trails. This is a compilation of the "greatest hits" of Beartooth geology we'd like to share with you based on 45 years of field research and leading academic field trips in Beartooth Country in collaboration with Drs.
Paul Mueller, University of Florida,
Darrell Henry, Louisiana State University, and
Joseph Wooden, USGS (ret).
This field guide is designed to help you discover the natural wonders that are preserved in and around the Beartooth Mountains. In the sections below you will find:
- Travel Logistics: Includes information on highway conditions, weather, maps and trail guides, links to other field guides and advice on how to safely and responsibly explore Beartooth Country to help plan your trip. Be prepared and know before you go!
- Beartooth Country Field Guides--Where to go, What to See and Do: This section provides information on the route that circumnavigates the Beartooth Mountains, with suggestions of stops to make to see extraordinary landscapes from highways, or side trips you might want to take to more deeply explore this country on Forest Service Roads or Trails. These road logs are for anyone who wants to simply get out for a day or more to enjoy the aesthetics and sublime qualities of this amazing country!
- Geologic History of the Beartooth Mountains: This companion webpage provides a detailed overview of 4 billion years of Earth history revealed in the Beartooth Mountains. Field sites recommended in the road log are keyed to these explanations of geologic features, history, and processes. Descriptions are provided about "what" the key features are, and also "when" and "how" they formed. Additional sections on "How do we know...." provide explanations on the scientific methods and type of evidence that is used to interpret Earth history and processes and how to think as a geologist. We think that you will have a richer experience traveling through Beartooth Country if you have a basic understanding of the natural history of this area.
- Bibliography of Scholarly Articles on the Beartooth Mountains: For those who want to really take a deep dive into research that has been done in the Beartooth Mountains over the past century, a comprehensive bibliography is provided (with many articles uploaded or with links to their source). References cited throughout the Field Guides can be found in this bibliography. This compilation of references should provide a solid foundation for anyone interested in doing future research in this area--graduate students, academic faculty, professional geologists, and citizen-scientists.
"Here is your country. Cherish these natural wonders, cherish the natural resources, cherish the history and romance as a sacred heritage, for your children and your children's children. Do not let selfish men or greedy interests skin your country of its beauty, its riches or its romance" -- Theodore Roosevelt
A Note on Geoheritage
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Paradise Valley, Yellowstone River, MT, with fall color
Provenance: Montana State Tourism Bureau, http://www.visitmt.com/
Reuse: This item is offered under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/ You may reuse this item for non-commercial purposes as long as you provide attribution and offer any derivative works under a similar license.
There is a growing international imperative to identify and preserve iconic geological sites for exploration, education and enjoyment for future generations.
Geoheritage encompasses related initiatives that promote
geoconservation, geodiversity, geoeducation, and geotourism. Geoheritage sites are recognized by their great scientific value in contributing to the understanding of Earth history, processes and environments. Geoheritage sites are also recognized by the important role they play in their relationship to humanity--where and how we live personally and in communities, relations between Earth and humanity that recognizes our collective reliance on natural resources and impacts of natural hazards. Geoheritage sites also embody our collective "sense of place" including cultural, aesthetic and spiritual values.
The
Geological Society of America has developed their Position Statement on Geoheritage:
"Geoheritage" is a generic but descriptive term applied to sites or areas of geologic features with significant scientific, educational, cultural, and/or aesthetic value. Geoheritage sites are important to the long-term health of the geoscience professions, to preserve sites of geoscience importance related to Earth processes, Earth history, and history of geologic thought; to recruit and train the next generation of geoscientists; and to engage the general public by demonstrating the relevance and importance of geology to societal interests. Scientifically and educationally significant Geoheritage sites include those with textbook geologic features and landscapes, distinctive rock or mineral types, unique or unusual fossils, or other geologic characteristics that are significant to education and research. Culturally significant Geoheritage sites are places where geologic features or landscapes played a role in cultural or historical events. Aesthetically significant Geoheritage sites include landscapes that are visually appealing and inspire a sense of awe and wonder. Geoheritage sites serve the public interest. Such sites are critical to advancing knowledge about natural hazards, groundwater supplies, soil processes, climate and environmental changes, evolution of life, mineral and energy supplies, and other aspects of the nature and history of Earth. Such sites have high potential for scientific studies, use as outdoor classrooms, enhancing public understanding of science, recreational use, and economic support to local communities. Many Geoheritage sites are tourist destinations that provide local and regional economic benefits.
Geoheritage also encompasses many values of importance to different stakeholder audiences: (See also Gray, 2005; and US National Park Service Values Embodied in Geoheritage):
- Research Value--Geoheritage sites provide exemplary demonstrations of geologic history, processes, and environments; many sites are "type sections" of geologic features that are used to compare and correlate with other sites globally; and many sites have been central to new discoveries and insights and have contributed to the evolution of geologic thought.
- Educational Value--Geoheritage sites provide natural laboratories for outdoor learning about Earth at all levels; these sites can be integrated into national, state and local K-12 science education standards; undergraduate and graduate level field trips and field camps are a core part of training ofthe future geoscience workforce; and, many opportunities exist for "free will" learning opportunities by the general public through activities provided by parks, museums, organizations, and self-guided geo-touring,
- Functional Value--Geoheritage sites may provide environmental amenity services such as wetlands to improve water quality and quantity, soil resources, barrier islands to prevent coastal erosion, geohazard mitigation (floods, seismic, volcanic, mass wasting), sites for nuclear waste storage, carbon sequestration,
- Economic Value--Many Geoheritage sites are recognized because of the economic impacts they have had on communities; e.g., the history and legacy of resource extraction for energy (coal, oil and gas, uranium), metals (precious, base, strategic minerals), industrial minerals (sand and gravel aggregates, talc, clays, limestone, gypsum), and building stones.
- Goutourism/Recreational Value--Geoheritage sites are often destinations that are sought out to encourage humans to interact with nature, and to engage related activites such as hiking, rock climbing, rafting, and much more. Geoheritage sites can be a major economic driver for a region.
- Cultural Value--recognizing the important role of "sense of place" for many communities; showcasing and preserving indigenous knowledge of an area and their relation to spiritual values; the relationship of humanity to Earth as revealed in archeological or historical sites.
- Aesthetic Value--Geoheritage sites are often stunning in their aesthetic grandeur and often inspire artistic works such as the paintings of Thomas Moran, the photographs of William Henry Jackson or Ansel Adams, the writing of John McPhee, Ivan Doig, Gretel Ehrlich, Terry Tempest Williams and so many more.
- Intrinsic Value--Some things are just so special, unique, and irreplaceable that they simply must be preserved; recognizes the importance of preservationa and protection of all components of ecosystems, and the close relationship between geodiversity and biodiversity. Consider the writing of H. D. Thoreau: "...in Wildness is the preservation of the world" from Walking or "...a man is rich in proportion to the number of things he can afford to let alone" from Where I lived and What I lived for; or Aldo Leopold's The Land Ethic: "The land ethic simply enlarges the boundaries of the community to include soils, waters, plants, and animals, or collectively: the land."
Significant international Geoheritage initiatives include
In the United States,
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IUGS First 100 Geosites
Provenance: IUGS, Commission on Geoheritage
Reuse: This item is in the public domain and maybe reused freely without restriction.
Two sites in the Beartooth Mountains have been recognized by the International Union of Geological Sciences in their "First 100 Geosites" compilation. "An IUGS Geological Heritage Site is a key place with geological elements and/or processes of international scientific relevance, used as a reference, and/or with a substantial contribution to the development of geological sciences through history." We are honored that these two sites are internationally recognized as among the most important sites globally that have contributed to the advancement of geologic research and thought:" The Archean Rocks of the Eastern Beartooth Mountains (#45) and the Stillwater Complex (#46) (Download the PDF of The First 100 IUGS Geosites)
Honoring the People Who Lived in Beartooth Country Before Us
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Portrait of Chief Plenty Coup, Crow Chief, 1848-1932.
Provenance: Library of Congress, posted by National Park Service https://www.nps.gov/bica/learn/historyculture/chief-plenty-coups.htm
Reuse: This item is in the public domain and maybe reused freely without restriction.
Geoheritage inextricably links landscapes with the people who live there. Beartooth-Yellowstone Country has traditionally been at the crossroads of many indigenous people including the Crow (Apsáalooke), Sheepeaters (Tukudika), Blackfeet, Flathead, Salish-Kootenai, Assiniboine Nakota, Gros Ventre, Kiowa, Lakota Sioux, Cayuse, Shoshone-Bannock, Eastern Shoshone, Coeur d'Alene, and Nez Perce Nations who inhabited this area dating back to the of the last Ice Age ~12,000 years ago. This country was traditional hunting grounds for these tribes, and Obsidian Cliff in what is now Yellowstone National Park provided an important mineral resource for making arrowheads and spear points and were traded among indigenous people as far east as the Ohio River valley. The first exploration of this country by American explorers was the Lewis and Clark expedition as William Clark skirted the northern margin of the Beartooth Mountains on his return trip on the Yellowstone River in 1806. With growing pressure of westward development, the U.S. government ratified the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851which recognized the territorial land of the Crow, Cheyenne, Sioux, Arapaho, Mandan, Assiniboine, Hidatsa and Arikara Nations, but allowed for safe passage of American settlers along routes such as the Oregon Trail and allowed roads and forts to be built on these lands. The Crow Nation occupied much of Beartooth-Yellowstone country, and the Laramie Treaty of 1851 had dedicated lands to the Crow Nation from what is now the center of Yellowstone National Park to the east to the Powder River (~250 miles east-west). Establishment of YNP in 1872 by President U.S. Grant initiated the end of indigenous lands within the Park boundaries. The resident Sheepeaters (Tukudika) Tribe was forced to leave the park within 7 years, and park administrators from the US Army circulated false rumors that the Native People were afraid of the thermal areas to promote a growing tourism industry. In 1877, Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce Tribe, during his famous march while being pursued by the US Army, passed through Yellowstone National Park, through the Absaroka Range and exiting through the Clark Fork of the Yellowstone River, and then headed north through the area near Red lodge MT towards the Bear's Paw Mountains in north Central Montana. By 1882, with increased pressure of white settlers engaged with mining (discovery of gold) and homesteading, the Crow Nation lands around Cooke City had been ceded to the U.S. government, and by 1891 was further reduced to an area limited between the west boundary south of Billings, Montana and the 107
th meridian (~75 miles east-west). The original Crow reservation in 1851 was over 30 million acres, but was reduced to eight million acres in the subsequent Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868. In the 1950s, the U.S. government forced the tribe to sell their right to the Bighorn Canyon to make room for the Yellowtail Dam, and today the Crow Reservation is reduced to 2.2 million acres.
- Indian Education for All--portal to resources from the Montana University System
- Evolution of Indian Territories in Montana, Native News 2018, University of Montana Dept. of Journalism
- Historic Tribes, Yellowstone National Park
- The Tukudika Indians, (Sheepeater Tribe), Yellowstone National Park
- Flight of the Nez Perce, Yellowstone National Park
- The Crow Native Americans
- [link
Portrait of Chief Plenty Coup, Crow Chief, 1848-1932.
Provenance: Library of Congress, posted by National Park Service https://www.nps.gov/bica/learn/historyculture/chief-plenty-coups.htm
Reuse: This item is in the public domain and maybe reused freely without restriction.
'Chief Plenty Coups'] , Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, NPS
- Fort Laramie Treaty 1851 (Horse Creek Treaty), National Park Service
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Map of homelands of Native American tribes in Montana.
Provenance: Native News, 2018; University of Montana School of Journalism; https://nativenews.jour.umt.edu/2018/history/
Reuse: This item is offered under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/ You may reuse this item for non-commercial purposes as long as you provide attribution and offer any derivative works under a similar license.
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Map of the territory of the Crow Nation as defined in the Fort Laramie Treaty, 1851.
Provenance: Compiled by Royce, Charles C. from Royce, Charles C.: Indian Land Cessions in the United States. Smithsonian Institution. Bureau of American Ethnology. Eighteenth Annual Report, Part 2. Washington, D.C., 1899.
Reuse: This item is in the public domain and maybe reused freely without restriction.
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Map of Crow Indian Reservation, 1868 (area 619 and 635). Yellow area 517 is 1851 Crow treaty land ceded to the U.S.
Provenance: 18 Annual Report of the Bureau of American Ethnology, Government Printing Office, 1899
Reuse: This item is in the public domain and maybe reused freely without restriction.
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Map of Crow Indian Reservation 1891 (area 715). Area 714 ceded to the US government.
Provenance: 18 Annual Report of the Bureau of American Ethnology, Government Printing Office, 1899
Reuse: This item is in the public domain and maybe reused freely without restriction.
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Map of Crow Indian Reservation, Montana, 1921
Provenance: Department of the Interior, Office of Indian Affairs ; compiled and drawn by Frazer C. Hilder ; revised, June 1929, by E.H. Coulson
Reuse: This item is in the public domain and maybe reused freely without restriction.
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This map shows the tribal boundaries defined by the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851 and the Flathead and Blackfeet Treaties of 1855. Present day tribal lands are shown in red.
Provenance: Indian Education for All program, Montana State University.
Reuse: This item is offered under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/ You may reuse this item for non-commercial purposes as long as you provide attribution and offer any derivative works under a similar license.
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Allons! Whoever you are come travel with me!
Traveling with me you find what never tires.
The earth never tires,
The earth is rude, silent, incomprehensible at first, Nature is rude and incomprehensible at first,
Be not discouraged, keep on, there are divine things well envelop'd,
I swear to you there are divine things more beautiful than words can tell!
-- Walt Whitman, Song of the Open Road
Travel Logistics...Plan Ahead, Know Before You Go!
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Download this section on Travel Logistics or print a copy so you will have access to this important information while you travel through Beartooth Country (you will commonly be out of cell coverage and with no wi-fi access). Download the PDF of Travel Logistics (Acrobat (PDF) 4.6MB Dec31 24).
Background Information on the Beartooth Mountains and Highway
For more background information on the Beartooth Mountains, check out resources at the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Foundation that "supports stewardship of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness and fosters appreciation of all wildlands." You might want to acquire a volume of Voices of Yellowstone's Capstone, A Narrative Atlas of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, by T.N. Parrie, and J.A. Logan, 2019--provides a great overview of the natural and cultural landscape of the Beartooth Mountains.
The USFS describes the Beartooth Scenic Byway-All American Road and the US Department of Transportation Federal Highway Administration provides this review of the many challenges in the history of construction and maintenance of this highway: An Orphaned Highway.
For a great overview of the general geology of Montana, refer to Roadside Geology of Montana, 2nd edition, by D.W. Hyndman and R.C. Thomas.
Refer to the official Montana Tourism Visit Montana Website for general travel information.
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Field Guide Route
This road trip circumnavigates the Beartooth Mountains along state and federal highways. The general route starts in Livingston, MT, and heads east on I-90 to Columbus MT, then south on MT 78 to Absarokee MT and on to Red Lodge MT, then follows US 212 over the Beartooth Pass to Cooke City MT, enter Yellowstone National Park through the Northeast Entrance and drive along the northern margin of the Park past Tower Junction to Mammoth Hot Springs, then north on US 89 from Gardiner MT through Paradise Valley of the Yellowstone River back to Livingston. The entire loop is about 290 miles. Be aware of possible delays or lack of access due to construction, weather, landslides and floods, and "critter jams" in the Yellowstone National Park segment. Along the way, we identify a number of access points to the Beartooth-Absaroka Ranges along USFS roads and trails that will lead to specific geologic features of interest. The entire drive around the range can be done in a single day, but we recommend that you take the time to explore Beartooth Country along these numerous side trips: 1) West Fork and main Boulder Rivers; 2) Stillwater River Valley; 3) East and West Fork Rosebud Creeks; 4) stops along the high Beartooth Highway; 5) Chief Joseph Highway through Sunlight Basin; 6) Black Canyon of Yellowstone River in YNP and the South Snowy Block; and 7) numerous stops in Paradise Valley and the North Snowy Block.
Weather and Road Conditions
The Beartooth Highway is generally open from Memorial Day through mid-October and is closed in winter. The road from Gardiner to Cooke City, MT through the northern part of Yellowstone National Park is open year round, but the road through Sunlight Basin to Cody, WY is also seasonally closed. The highway tops out at almost 11,000 feet and the weather can be quite unpredictable and variable. Road closures due to snow and sleet may occur even in the summer.
- Be sure to check local weather forecasts (Red Lodge, Cooke City) before you venture into the high country.
- Check for road status and updates on the Montana and Wyoming Departments of Transportation websites.
- Be sure to dress appropriately with layers of clothes, wind and rain gear, and sturdy footwear. An 80oF day in Red Lodge could be 50oF at the summit of Beartooth Pass in the summer.
- There is no cell service over most of the Beartooth Highway, and few support services between Red Lodge and Cooke City except for the Top of the World Resort. So come prepared with a full tank of gas, food and drinks to sustain you for your trip.
- For surrounding USFS roads, check with the USFS as there may be seasonal closures for many roads. For the Custer-Gallatin National Forest Red Lodge District (Montana), access their Maps and Publications. For the Shoshone National Forest (Wyoming), access their information on the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Contact information for USFS Ranger Districts:
- Be aware that you will have to pay an Entrance Fee into Yellowstone National Park at the NE (Cooke City) or N (Gardiner) entrances.
Safety, Safety, Safety
Check advice from the USFS on their Know Before You Go website that has excellent advice on all aspects of safe use of our National Forests.
- Driving: The Beartooth Highway is steep and narrow with many switchbacks and blind corners. Be alert for other vehicles, particularly RVs and trailers. Be alert for wildlife crossings. Watch for rocks on the road. Be careful of motorcyclists and bicyclists who enjoy traveling over the highway. Many Forest Service roads may become impassible due to weather (wet, slick clay, flooding), and many are primitive roads with little maintenance that are not appropriate for street vehicles.
- Road Cuts: If you are exploring the geology of road cuts, be very careful about parking in safe spots well off the road. Be alert to oncoming traffic. Be careful avoid rolling rocks onto the road.
- THIS IS BEAR COUNTRY (grizzly and black). Many campsites do not allow tent camping and require hard-bodied camping units. Be especially careful about use and storage of food products and waste. Hike in groups, make consistent noise so you don't surprise bears in their habitat that could result in an unfortunate encounter. Be Bear Aware (advice from the USFS). . And don't forget about mountain lions.
- Pack a First Aid Kit! Your kit can prove invaluable if you or a member of your group suffers a cut, bee sting or allergic reaction. Pack antiseptics for cuts and scrapes, tweezers, insect repellent, a snake bite kit, pain relievers, and sunscreen. Tailor your kit to your family's special needs. (From USFS)
- Bring emergency supplies. In addition to a first aid kit, you should also have a map of the area, compass, flashlight, knife, waterproof fire starter, personal shelter, whistle, warm clothing, high energy food, water, water-purifying tablets, and insect repellant. (From USFS)
- Altitude Sickness--be aware of the high elevations of Beartooth Country, as Beartooth Pass is almost 11,000 feet and many of the hikes in the area will start at about 7000 feet elevation. Symptons are dizziness, headaches, nausea, fatigue. If you think you are experiencing altitude sickness it's best to rest and descend as soon as possible. Travel with caution if you are traveling from low elevation areas. It doesn't matter if you think you're in great shape, altitude sickness can still be expressed. See advice on Altitude Sickness from the Cleveland Clinic.
- Sun Exposure--high elevations, reflected light off of snowfields or lakes can all result in sunburn or even sunstroke. Be prepared and cover up with layers of clothes, use a high SPF sun screen, and wear polarized sun glasses to protect against buring your eyes.
- Extreme Weather--Be prepared for rapid changes in weather. Temperatures can drop by 10s of degrees on short notice. The Beartooths are famous for mid-afternoon, violent thunderstorms blowing through that can have high winds and deliver large volumes of rain, sleet, hail and snow. Inches of snow can fall ANY month of the year at high elevations. Make sure you travel with rain and wind gear. Wear layered clothes so you can easily adjust to changing conditions. Hypothermia is always a concern!
- Camping: Many campsites do not allow tent camping and require hard-bodied camp units to protect against bear encounters.
- Fire Safety! Be aware of any fire danger warnings in the area. It's best to use camp stoves if possible. If building an open campfire, be sure you have an area for a campfire that cannot spread laterally or vertically - a grill or stone surface is ideal. When putting the fire out, drown it with water. Make sure all embers, coals and sticks are wet. Embers buried deep within the pile have a tendency to reignite later. (from USFS)
- Hiking (on trail and off): Beartooth Country is rugged so always venture out with appropriate layers of clothes, wind and rain gear, food and snacks, water (and filters). It will be very difficult to mobilize Search and Rescue and if mobilized, back country evacuations put everyone at risk of further injury or worse!
- Be prepared for changing weather: temperature, wind, precipitation; wear layered clothes and expect the worst.
- Stay hydrated; make sure you have plenty of fluids, and carry a water pump or filter;
- Stay fueled; take plenty of high-energy food and snacks--you'll burn a lot of calories on these trails!
- First aid kit; insect repellent; sunscreen (SPF 30 at least for high intensity UV protection); sunglasses
- Maps (and possibly GPS unit); know your route!
- Be aware of rapidly changing weather conditions--snow and sleet storms can happen any time of the year; violent thunderstorms are common in the afternoon.
- Be "BEAR AWARE" and have bear spray at the ready!
- Be extremely careful with campfires; carry a stove if possible.
- Let someone know your plans for the day, when you expect to return.
- Cell-phones: just because you have a cell phone doesn't mean that you'll be safe or able to get immediate help! Many back-country areas have no service.
- Search and rescue is serious business--very dangerous and costly. Don't put others at risk!
- Know your limits! Only you can determine if you'll have a safe and fun day in the field.
Enjoy your days on the trail, but remember, this is a resource that needs care and protection!
Outdoor Ethics
In the spirit of Geoheritage values, the preservation of geological outcrops, samples, landforms and landscapes is of the highest priority to ensure access and enjoyment of these irreplaceable features for future generations.
Advice on responsibly visiting, enjoying, and maintaining natural sites
- Custer-Gallatin National Forest advice on Outdoor Safety and Ethics
- Pay any required day use, campsite, or other access fees (Passes and Permits, USFS)! These fees are important to help offset the costs of maintenance and development of USFS/NPS/BLM recreational facilities. Do your part to help support these services!
- Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness Regulations (general use, livestock, Bear Aware)
- Leave No Trace Principles: 1) Plan ahead and prepare; 2) Travel and camp on durable surfaces; 3) Dispose of waste properly; 4) Leave what you find; 5) Minimize campfire impacts; 6) Respect wildlife; 7) Be considerate of others.
- Hike Kind! Advice from the Gallatin Valley Land Trust. "Are you the Outside Kind? When it comes to the trails, kindness rules. Whether it is kindness to the actual trail and the land around you, kindness to the land owners, land managers, neighbors and other critters that call the area home, or kindness to your fellow trail users, it is up to each of us to respect our shared outdoor spaces and experiences.
- Responsibility
- Don't cut switchbacks; this only increases erosion and doesn't save you time or energy.
- Obey all trail closures and restrictions;
- Leave no Trace (Center for Outdoor Ethics); plan ahead and prepare (to avoid high impact); camp on durable surfaces, dispose of waste properly, leave what you find for others to enjoy; minimize use of fire, respect wildlife, be considerate of others.
- Pack it in, Pack it out.
- Share the Trail! Many trails have multiple users: hikers, trail runners, horseback riders, Nordic skiers, climbers, mountain bikers, and all terrain vehicles. Be safe and courteous.
- Help maintain the trails! If you come across a trail obstruction take a few minutes and help clear the path for others to follow. Report hazards to the Forest Service. Plan to volunteer to help repair and maintain trails on National Trails Day. If you pass the trail crew or wilderness ranger on the trail, give them a big "Thank you" for making your trip possible.
- Be aware of invasive species and do what you can to eradicate and stop expansion.
- Spread the word about low impact hiking and camping!
Geoethics and Sampling
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Many of the field sites documented in this field guide are vulnerable to degradation due to natural and human actions, and many contain irreplaceable geologic materials. Please leave all outcrops intact along road cuts and trails. Take a picture rather than a physical sample if you can. If you must sample for a legitimate research or educational project, please sample only talus and float (these commonly best expose geological relations anyway), and sample away from obvious observation points (go off-trail, go around road cuts, etc.). Make sure that you have any required permits (National Park Service, US Forest Service) and/or permissions from private landowners. Thank you for your help in preserving these iconic geologic features for the enjoyment and education of generations to come.
Campsites and Trail Maps
The Custer-Gallatin National Forest has made available a very useful compilation of campgrounds, picnic areas, scenic vistas, and hiking trails along the Highway 212 Beartooth Corridor. The Gardiner Ranger District (MT) also has a list of available campgrounds and policies for dispersed camping. Be aware that some of these campgrounds are fist-come, first-served, but for others it's a good idea to secure a campsite reservation due to high tourist pressure. And, some campsites are limited to hard-side campers for bear safety.
US Forest Service Campgrounds:
Search for USFS Campgrounds, Tickets and Tours, Passes and Permits, and Day Use Venues at Recreation.gov .
- Red Lodge Area:. Campgrounds on the West Fork Rock Creek (Basin CG, Cascade CG, Palisdades CG) and along Rock Creek, main Beartooth Highway (Greenough Lake CG, Limber Pine CG, M-K CG, Parkside CG, Rattin CG, Sheridan CG ). Reservations can be made at all thee campgrounds except M-K CG.
- Beartooth Plateau Shoshone National Forest Campgrounds (Wyoming): Beartooth Lake, Island Lake, Crazy Creek (east of Cooke City), Fox Creek (Crazy Creek and Fox Creek campgrounds are all first-come-first-serve. No reservations are taken for these campgrounds), Lake Creek, Hunter Peak (Sunlight Basin/Chief Joseph Scenic Byway), Little Sunlight CG.
- Cooke City Area: Colter and Soda Butte Campgrounds are first-come-first-serve. No reservations are taken for these campgrounds. These campgrounds are for hard-sided campers only.
- Gardiner District: Bear Creek Campground, Canyon Campground, Colter Campground, Chiuef Joseph, Eagle Creek Campground, Soda Butte Campground, Timber Camp Campground, Tom Miner Campground and Dispersed Camping near Gardiner and Cooke City, MT;
- Yellowstone District (includes Crazy Mountains): Areas for Campground Camping at Yellowstone District: Aspen Campground, Big Beaver Campground, Big Timber Canyon, Chippy Park Campground, East Boulder Campground, Falls Creek Campground, Halfmoon Campground, Hells Canyon Campground, Hick's Park Campground, Pine Creek Campground, Snowbank Campground, West Boulder Campground and areas for Dispersed Camping Main Boulder, Mill Creek, Shields River Dispersed Site.
Trail maps for the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness:
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Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness Trail Map
Provenance: Custer-Gallatin National Forest
Reuse: This item is in the public domain and maybe reused freely without restriction.
USGS and MBMG Geologic Maps That Cover Beartooth Country
- Berg, R.B., Lonn, J.D., and Locke, W.W., 1999, Geologic map of the Gardiner 30' x 60' quadrangle, south-central Montana: Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology Open-File Report 387, 11 p., 1 sheet, scale 1:100,000.
- Berg, R.B., Lopez, D.A., and Lonn, J.D., 2000, Geologic map of the Livingston 30' x 60' quadrangle, south-central Montana: Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology Open-File Report 406, 21 p., 1 sheet, scale 1:100,000. Accompanying Report
- du Bray, E.A., Elliott, J.E., Van Gosen, B.S., La Rock, E.J., and West, A.W., 1994, Reconnaissance geologic map of the Sliderock Mountain area, Sweet Grass and Stillwater Counties, Montana: U.S. Geological Survey Miscellaneous Field Studies Map MF-2259, scale 1:50,000.
- Iddings, J.P., and Weed, J.H., 1894, Description of the Livingston quadrangle, Montana: U.S. Geological Survey Geologic Atlas, Folio 1, scale 1:250,000.
- Lopez, D.A., 2001, Preliminary geologic map of the Red Lodge 30' x 60' quadrangle, south-central Montana: Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology Open-File Report 423, 17 p., 1 sheet.
- Lopez, D. A., 2001, Big Timber 30' x 60' Quadrangle South-Central Montana, Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology Open File Report MBMG 405; Accompanying Report
- Lopez, D.A., Sandau, K.L., Thale, P. and Smith, S., 2005. Geologic Map of the Red Lodge Area, Carbon County, Montana. Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology.
- Page, N.J., and Nokleberg, W.J., 1974, Geologic map of the Stillwater Complex, Montana: U.S. Geological Survey Miscellaneous Investigations Map I-797, scale 1:12,000, doi: https://doi.org/10.3133/i797
- Pierce, W.G., 1978. Geologic map of the Cody 1 degree by 2 degrees Quadrangle, northwestern Wyoming(No. 963). Geologic map of the Cody 1 degree by 2 degrees Quadrangle, northwestern Wyoming Miscellaneous Field Studies Map 963 By: W. G. Pierce (compiler) https://doi.org/10.3133/mf963
- Richards, P.W., 1957, Geology of the area east and southeast of Livingston, Park County, Montana: U.S. Geological Survey Bulletin 1021-L, p. 335-438, scale 1:24,000.
- Roberts, A.E., 1964d, Geology of the Livingston quadrangle, Montana: U.S. Geological Survey Map GQ-259, scale 1:24,000.
- Van Gosen et al., 2000, Generalized geologic map of the Absaroka-Beartooth Study Area, south-central Montana, U.S. Geological Survey, MF-2338.
- Geologic map of Yellowstone National Park, 1972, U.S. Geological Survey, Miscellaneous Geologic Investigations Map I-711, Map Scale: 1:125,000
USGS and MBMG Reports on the Geology of Beartooth Country
- James, H.L., 1946. Chromite deposits near Red Lodge, Carbon County, Montana (No. 945). US Geological Survey, Bulletin 945-F, Strategic Minerals Investigations, p. 151-189.
- Wedow, Helmuth, Jr., Gaskill, D.L., Banister, D'A.P., and Pattee, E.C., 1975, Mineral resources of the Absaroka Primitive Area and vicinity, Park and Sweet Grass Counties, Montana, with a section on Interpretation of geophysical data, by D.L. Peterson: U.S. Geological Survey Bulletin 1391-B, 115 p., 2 pls.
- Simons, F.S., 1979. Mineral resources of the Beartooth primitive area and vicinity, Carbon, Park, Stillwater, and Sweet Grass Counties, Montana, and Park County, Wyoming (No. 1391). US Government Printing Office.
- Simons, F. S., Armbrustmacher, T. J. and Van Noy, R. M. (1973) Mineral resources of the Beartooth Primitive Area and vicinity, Carbon, Park, Stillwater, and Sweet Grass Counties, Montana and Park County, Wyoming. US Geological Survey open-file Report, 207 p.
- Elliott, J. E., D. L. Gaskill, W. H. Raymond, D. L. Peterson, R. B. Stotelmeyer, F. L. Johnson, D. S. Lindsey, James Ridenour, S. W. Schmauch, and N. T. Zilka. "Mineral resources of the North Absaroka Wilderness Study Area." Park and Sweet Grass Counties, Montana: US Geological Survey Bulletin 1505 (1983): 251.
- du Bray, E. A., and Harlan, S. S., 1998, Geology, Age and Tectonic Setting of the Cretaceous slidrock Mountain Volcano, Montana, USGS Professional Paper 1602
- Hammarstrom, J.M., Zientek, M.L., and Elliott, J.E., eds., 1993, Mineral resource assessment of the Absaroka-Beartooth study area, Custer and Gallatin National Forests, Montana: U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 93-207, 296 p., 19 pls
- Hammarstrom, J.M., Wilson, A.B., Van Gosen, B.S., Carlson, R.R., Kulik, D.M., Lee, G.K., Elliott, J.E., Perry Jr, W.J., du Bray, E.A. and Zientek, M.L., 1998. Mineral resource assessment; Custer and Gallatin national forests, Montana (No. 98-517). US Geological Survey,.
- McCallum, I.S., 2002. The Stillwater Complex: A review of the geology. Stillwater Complex, Geology and Guide. Billings, pp.21-25.
- Mogk, D.W., Mueller, P.A., Henry, D.J., 2020, The Archean Geology of Montana (Acrobat (PDF) 18.5MB Oct30 24), Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology Centennial Volume. Available online: https://mbmg.mtech.edu/pubs/GeologyOfMontana/
- Boudreau, A.E., Butak, K.C., Geraghty, E.P., Holick, P.A. and Koski, M.S., 2020. Mineral deposits of the Stillwater Complex (Acrobat (PDF) 27.8MB Oct30 24). Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology Special Publication, 122(2), pp.1-33.
Geologic Field Guides and Road Logs Covering Beartooth Country
Geologic Field Guides and Road Logs Prepared by Numerous Professional Societies
- Montana Geological Society, 1972, Twenty-First Annual Geological Conference: Crazy Mountains Basin September 22, 23, 24, 1972, p. 193-222. (AAPG Datapages Archive for purchase)
- Montagne, J., and Chadwick, R.A., 1982, Cenozoic History of the Yellowstone Valley South of Livingston, Montana, D.L. Smith (ed) Guidebook for 35th Annual Meeting of the Rocky Mountain Section of the Geological Society of America, 67 pp.
- Montagne, J. and Chadwick, R.A., 1982. Cenozoic history of the Yellowstone Valley between Yellowstone Park and Livingston, Montana. Wyoming Geological Association, Geology of Yellowstone Park Area; 33rd Annual Field Conference Guidebook,
Pages 31-51. (AAPG Datapages Archive for purchase)
- Czamanske, G.K., and Zientek, M.L., 1985, The Stillwater Complex, Montana: Geology and guide, Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology Special Publication 92, 396 p., 4 sheets. (Purchase from Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology)
- Foose, R.M., Wise, D.U., Fanshawe, J.R., Dutcher, L.A.F., Ducher, R.R., and French, D.E., 1986, Field Trip #4 Red Lodge to Dead Indian Hill via Clarks Fork Canyon: Tectonics and Geologic History of the Beartooth Uplift, Montana Geological Society and Yellowstone Bighorn Research Association Joint Field Conference and Symposium: Geology of the Beartooth Uplift and Adjacent Basins, p. 291-307.
- Jobling, J., and Ritter, D., 1986, Road Log--Red Lodge, Montana to the East Rosebud River and Return: Tertiary-Pleistocene Stratigraphy Along the Beartooth Front, Montana Geological Society and Yellowstone Bighorn Research Association Joint Field Conference and Symposium: Geology of the Beartooth Uplift and Adjacent Basins, p. 265-271. (AAPG Database Archive for purchase)
- Parsons, W.H., 1986, Field Trip #2 Red Lodge, Heart Mountain, Sunlight Basin, Beartooth Pass, Montana Geological Society and Yellowstone Bighorn Research Association Joint Field Conference and Symposium: Geology of the Beartooth Uplift and Adjacent Basins, p. 271-278.
- Mueller, P.A, Locke, W.W., and Wooden, J.L., 1987, A study in contrasts: Archean and Quaternary geology of the Beartooth Highway: Geological Society of America Centennial Field Guide, Rocky Mountain Section, p. 75-78. (Purchase from GSA Bookstore)
- Mueller, P. A., and Wooden, J.L., 1988, Field guide to an Archean transect, eastern Beartooth Mountains, Montana-Wyoming (Acrobat (PDF) 22.7MB Oct25 24), in S.E. Lewis and R. B. Berg (eds), Precambrian and Mesozoic plate margins: Montana, Idaho and Wyoming with field guides for the 8th International Conference on Basement Tectonics, Aug. 8-12, 1988, Butte, MT, MBMG Special Paper 92, p. 131-140.
- Chadwick, R.A., Leaders, T., Todd, S. and Vian, R., 1989. Trip 5 Road Log Stillwater Mine, Beartooth Mountains, South-Central Montana, Montana Geological Society, p. 477. (AAPG Datapages Archives for purchase)
- Montagne, J. and Locke, W.W., 1989. Trip 7 road log, Cenozoic history of Yellowstone Valley between Livingston and Gardiner, Montana. In Geologic Resources of Montana, Guidebook 1989 Field Conference: Montana Geological Society (Vol. 2, pp. 502-521).
- Ames, V., and Grauman, J., 1991, RMS Field Trip #1: Nye-Bowler Lineament/Beartooth Front: AAPG Rocky Mountain Section Meeting, July 28-31, 1991, Billings, Montana, 45 pp. (AAPG Datapages Archives for purchase)
- Elliott, J.E., (ed), 1992, Guidebook for the Red Lodge-Beartooth Mountains, Stillwater Area, Northwest Geology, Vol 20/21, Tobacco Root Geological Society Seventeenth Annual Field Conference, 133 pp.
- Elliot, J.E., Kirk, A.R. and Johnson, T.W., 1992, Field Guide Gold-Copper-Silver Deposits of the New World District, in Elliot, J.E. (ed), Guidebook for the Red Lodge-Beartooth Mountains-Stillwater area, Seventeenth annual field conference, Tobacco Root Geological Society, p. 1-19.
- Locke, W.W., Clarke, W.D., Custer, S. G., Elliott, J.E., Lageson, D. R., Mogk, D.W., Montagne, J., Schmitt, J.G., Smith, M., 1995, The middle Yellowstone Valley from Livingston to Gardiner, Montana; a microcosm of Northern Rocky Mountain geology (Acrobat (PDF) 5.8MB Oct25 24), in Mogk (ed), Field Guide to Geologic Excursions in Southwest Montana; Road Logs of the Geological Society of America Rocky Mountain Section Meeting, Northwest Geology v. 24, p. 1-65.
- Malone, D., Hauge, T; Beutner, E., 1999, Field guide for the Heart Mountain detachment and associated structures, Northeast Absaroka Range, Wyoming; Geol. Soc. Amer. Field Guide1, pp. 177-201
- Thomas, R.C., 2008. A field guide to the Cambrian section at Beartooth Butte, northwestern Wyoming. Northwest Geology, 37, pp.159-172.
- Mogk, D.W., Mueller, P., Henry, D., 2024, Precambrian rocks of the eastern Beartooth Mountains, Montana and Wyoming (Acrobat (PDF) 7.6MB Nov27 24); E. Geraghty and A. English (eds), Tobacco Root Geological Society, Northwest Geology, vol 53, 49th Annual Field Conference, Columbus, MT, July 25-28, 2024, p. 37-54
- Jenkins, C.M., Zientek, M.>., Geraghty, E. P., and Parks, H. L., 2024, Geology of the Stillwater Complex in the Stillwater River Valley of Montana (Acrobat (PDF) 146.1MB Nov27 24), Northwest Geology, vol 53, 49th Annual Field Conference, Columbus, MT, July 25-28, 2024, p. 55-97
- Geraghty, E., 2024, FIELD GUIDE TO THE BENBOW AREA, EASTERN PORTION OF STILLWATER COMPLEX: EXAMINATION OF LARAMIDE TRIANGLE ZONE GEOMETRIES (Acrobat (PDF) 32.8MB Nov27 24), Northwest Geology, vol 53, 49th Annual Field Conference, Columbus, MT, July 25-28, 2024, p. 99-111.
Geologic Blog on Trip Across Beartooth Highway
A little planning before you take this field excursion will help ensure that you have a safe, comfortable and enriching excursion through Beartooth Country!