Waves breaking along a beach in southern Brazil.

Figure 2.11: Waves breaking along a beach in southern Brazil. As the waves approach the shore, the lower parts of the wave begin to interact with the seafloor, which slows the forward movement of the orbital pathways while the upper part of the wave maintains its forward velocity. The result is the development of an over steepened wave that leads to breaking and the creation of a surf zone as the waves run up on the beach and gravitational forces return some of the water back to the sea.
Originally uploaded in Integrate:Teaching for Sustainability:InTeGrate Modules:Coastal Processes, Hazards and Society:Student Materials.

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Uploaded: Sep7 16


Last Modified: 2016-09-07 11:01:55
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Credit: M. Kulp
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