Coastal Wave Mechanics
Compiled by Mark Francek (more info) at Carleton College (SERC) and Central Michigan University
Find animations and movies depicting how waves and water molecules behave along the shore and in deep water settings.
Orbital Motion in Deep Water, Exploring Earth (more info) : This Flash animation is useful for countering a common student belief that water molecules in swells travel significant distances downwind. In reality, water molecules in a deep water environment move mainly in place with a circular motion. Currents are chiefly responsible for moving water molecules significant distances. The animation can be paused and rewound to emphasize important points.
Motion in Deep and Shallow Water, McGraw Hill: This Flash animation pictures wave motion cross section for deep water and surf zones. As wavelength becomes half of wave depth, wavelength shortens, wave height increases, and the wave becomes unstable, eventually breaking within the surf zone. Swash and backwash motion are visible. Access the animation by clicking on the "Orbital Motion in Shallow Water" link.
Waves and Currents Movie, Wiley (more info) : This QuickTime movie with accompanying audio uses actual film footage to discuss wave mechanics in deep water and surf zones. There is a clear rendering of swash and backwash plus why longshore drift occurs. Due to a large file size, the animation loads slowly.
Rip Currents: This Earth Science Photo of the Day shows how rip currents form along shorelines. The annotated photo describes how waves, sand bars, and gravity interact to form this dangerous feature. Clicking on the image affords a larger view.
